To be updated...

Dear readers

& all those who was following us on Facebook & via MireoFleet GPS tracking. Ride report is in the works and when finished will be put here in croatian (use Google translate for english).

Until then, you can check the photos and comment here

Thanks everyone for support, sponsors, family & friends!

Viva Las Vegas!

Almost gone...

It's time to pack our stuff & say bye, bye...

Today we ride, away from the sunset, to the East, to Persia. GPS tracking should be working today, so you can look for us on user: MotoPersia pass: MotoPersia

Unbelivable busy was last week, and last few days just impossible. We're still going on our day jobs, and after that was packing, searching final details for sponsors, stickers, shirts, looking for tents, GPS navigation, GPS tracking, servicing bikes, shopping for tires, family issues... and if we made it, lunch and sleep. Josip & myself are walking zombies, we just aren't eating anything :D

I've gotta go now, have last lunch with my family & hop on the bike and to Belgrade.

Last pic, from yesterdays evening at the sticker makers. Pic with full setup, you'll see from the road ;)

Take care ya all!

Upgrades & mods

Heyya!

Little time left to lift off! Last week was just crazy, no time to eat, no time to sleep, just having fun jumping from garage to mechanics, upgrading, repairing, servicing...

Both of us did our regular and irregular maintanance on the bikes, me at dr. Brum's office and Josip at our sponsor Avtoval BMW in Slovenia. But, as it goes when you don't have much time, other half of servicing the bikes will be done this week because they didn't have all the parts. Yipee, changing chain and sprocets on my bike and gaskets on Josip's machine will be done few days before the start. It's ok, when adrenaline is pumping :)

But, what we planned to do ourselves is all installed and ready on bikes.

New horn, for quick penetration into traffic jams, larger peg for parking in the sand, exhaust protection, mounting tires on sport bikes... let's see what we've done.

Test ride

Huuh, so busy...

These preparations are starting to speed up, and there's little more time left to start of MotoPersia. But blog we must and test we must too, so this is what we've been up to last weekend.
Josip's side cases are finaly mounted and packed with most of his gear, just to see how they will hold up and even more improve BMW's sporty look. We decided to make a faux camping trip to river Mrežnica, near Duga Resa. about 80 kms from Zagreb, just enought to find a grassy knoll.

I made lunch and Josip cleaned up the dishes. Team chemistry is working well, as long as Josip keeps washing dishes :D

Much is happening the next week, but you'll be posted here and our Facebook

L8r!

Weekend ride

Whiff...
this weekend was quite eventful and filled with good rides. I'm still testing the new Held gear in every condition so I decided to visit the sea and my V-Strom forum buddy JZ who lent me his uncatalytic exhaust for the trip.

This time I was with my copilot/girlfriend Monika, who was filming the most interesting parts of the ride. But as it always goes with girls, her overpreparing and applying makeup made our start late about 1 hour :D
So, to make a long trip to coastal city Rijeka where we were headed, short, we took the highway.
After about 100 kms, the tire blew at 130 km/h! No tire spray could save it as the hole was gigantic. I took out my orange hazard vest and headed slowly to the nearest tire shop (in a small village 20 kms from the puncture site). The guy was a biker and quickly we were rolling once more to the city of Rijeka. Ariving and being late for 2,5 hours, hehe.
The rest of the ride was just great, with the Rijeka V-Strom crew. To cut my blabber short, I present you this wonderful film made entirely by Monika:

Oh yes, Held Carese&Torno pants and jacket performed great. I just noticed that it's not really an 4 season combination as expected, because there is no thermal liner. Below 15°C I'd have to wear a long sleeve shirt or a windstopper. But I guess in Iran I won't have problems like that :D Can't wait to try it out at +35°C

This week on schedule:

mounting Josips sidecases.

'till soon, take care & ride safe!

p.s. I crashed my helmet, the vent openings are broken and GPS device is broken too. Not to mention the flat tire. Quite much for 2 days of weekend in peaceful and quiet Croatia.

Held gear - preview

p.s. if the video doesn't work, please watch directly on Youtube. You'll thank me later.

Hello ya all!
This time it's me, your favourite fashion adventure biker :D
As you can see, our Held gear has arrived! WooHoo! It's real and it's spectacular.

Josip was offline for the weekend, doing preemptive strike on his wisdom teeth. Better safe than sorry, if it starts hurting on the trip. Maybe he should have taken out the appendix too @:)

see how wise I am? I've still got my wisdom teeth. Brushing teeth every day finaly paid off! Being wise.. who would know!?

Anyway, last weekend I was in Moto oprema AMD, with mr. Damir and his boss/wife Ana Marija, who are with us from the beginning and belive we can make the trip alive. And keep the gear alive too.

I hardly slept the night before, knowing what was waiting for me.. but little did I know how I'll feel. First time I saw the jacket, I saw love.. the first time I put it on, I felt love. And after 1000kms of wearing it, it's still the one I love.

But seriously, Carese&Torno combination are just great! It feels like quality and is exactly what doctor prescribed for Iran and hot weather. I'll make a detailed report on the Held gear after the trip.

As for Josips' combination Imola&Arese, it's quite different. Not in quality (which is superb, not telling just because Held is our sponsor), but in application. Black sport jacket (luckly with lot's of air vents) and black trousers. Haha, like The Ghost rider. After he tries it out, you'll be posted on his impressions.

38 days to lift off! Stay tuned as things heat up... literary.. tomorrow's forecast for Yazd is 38°C And it's middle of April. Brrrr....

Mireo - preview

Honestly,
I'm not a fan of GPS maps & routing. Not at all. Using it in few occasions, I've come to conclusion that it just makes you less road and surroundings aware and generaly a more stupid driver.
Or maybe it's just me :D

Josip, as a programmer, is thrilled with every type of hi-tec gizmos, so it meant only one thing. To take the proposition from my riding buddy Santa. He proposed us to try out his company's latest product, Mireo Don't Panic navigation software.
Reluctantly and carefully, few days ago we finaly went to Mireo and to see what they came up with. Bah.. no GPS would win my cold cold heart :P




filming afterwards was not allowed as we visited Mireo special laboratories located in the inner sanctum (?!). We saw some pretty disturbing things, haha..
Will I be drawn to the Dark Side of the GPS, will Josip's Android phone satisfy his unhealthy craving for yummy software, will Cruz finally find Eden??


to be continued... in next visit, to Mireo labs!

Design

We gotta get out when we're young... we'll run till we drop... we're born to run... we're designed to go to Iran!

Yes, the designs for our booklet is finished! Thank you Marko "the designer" ;)

That means that our preparations are coming to a critical phase. Public opening. The curtain is rising and we're ready to embrace everyone. Like a gigantic cruise ship, taking you to unexplored teritory through iceberged sea. With you sitting comfortably in your cosy cabins, Josip and I take the risks, so you don't have to. And if we go deep down the iceberg, you'll follow. There is no escape, you're with us till' Davy Jones' Locker :D

Seriously, yesterday we've made our way to major three croatian motorcycle forums and we're beginning to contact all potential financial sponsors. Without them the whole trip will be in question. But we have no fear and we're optimistic, something will come up.

Also great croatian motorcycle magazine Motorevija has made an announcement of the trip.

So far we've raised zero money and that's our primary concern. Keep fingers crossed, for further updates on that plan.

And one last thing...

we've removed our catalytic converters. No mercy for them at all! As fuel in Iran is mostly leaded (as some say), to protect the bikes from engine it had to be done. Master Kucelj - the exhaust expert, has done all the dirty deeds. Our experience in that area is such that we would damage exhausts beyond repair :D

Josip's cat was welded out and removed using a drill and I had to remove the complete exhaust. Good V-Strom buddy helped me and lended his old Kucelj exhaust. Thanks JZ!

This big boy shure is loud! Check it out:

I hope the next update will be "we've raised helluva lot of money, we're going on a cruise to Bora Bora, Iran can wait".

Ciao.

Vis-à-vis

Dear followers,

VISAS are approved!!! Our Iranian contact, ms. Parto sent us a mail last week, in which was contained a magic number, a reference number! It's amazing how can a 6-digit number make a grown man in underwear jump for joy and banging his head on a chandalier (maybe only a 6-digit number on the bank account). Well, that's what happened to me, when I saw that 6-digit piece of beauty.

It was pretty intense my friends, I tell you.

As of formalities, we only gotta get our itinerary to Iran police, so they can keep their eye on us (but in a good way.. I think?). We've been told they take care of their tourists that travel with their own vehicles, so they don't get to harm or get lost somewhere in the desert. I won't be a conspiracy theorist about this one, until proven otherwise.

Another great thing, that contact mr. Reza gave us was for an extraordinary pair of travelers and owners of Perzepolis tourist agency, Ivona and Mohammad. Zagreb based agency, specialised in exotic tours, had an presentation of Iran last week. Some things we learned, some we knew and after it, Ivona and Mohammad offered their help in finding some sweet spots in Iran we shouldn't miss.

Oh, and they said that our plan of 5000 km is overly optimistic and we can't make it. Hehehe. They're just not aware what bikes can do. I know of guys who did more than 1000 kms a day in Iran (ok, that's just insane!), so in 15-20 days it's more than possible. Even if we stop often to check the cities and for some photos. We'll see if I was wrong :)

Anyway, we're going to them this week for those tips and details. After that, the route will be locked and complete!

If you just knew what drama and suspense went on on Gmail chat last sunday! It was Hitchcock wrapped in a Jerry Bruckheimer blockbuster meaningless spectacle. Josip was bidding for BMW sidecases (cost around 800€), like he does every Sunday (lost every bid so far, mostly in the last minute, haha). But this time, this time he did it with more fierceness than a rabid lynx. He bidded, bidded and raised more then ever! Both of us spent the last 15 minutes on the edge of our seats, while second after second expired on eBay timer... the price rose, fingernails shortened, the timer closed to 1 minute. Tik-tok, on the clock, but the party didn't stop. Now it's more than 450€, but 15 seconds left.... 14... 10...5...3...2..1... Tik-tok, on the clock, the party started! 1 extra Euro prevailed! The elusive BMW sidecases were finaly in Josips' possesion! "My precious!!!" Josip exclaimed. Jump for joy was now a standard, as we practiced few days before, when we got the visas.

New, sporty (of course) sidecases, just for Josip and his pet BMW. When they arrive, you'll have live preview of mounting them. Cases I mean.

For next week, we're planning on some meetings (equipement, route, sponsors, wild boars, etc..) so patient bears, remain patient. Good things are to come! Mostly to Josip and me :)

Fashion victims

How you doin'?

You like new me? I look so gorgeous with my new sunglasses, suit and bike. Don't you agree? All wave hands in the air who agrees! That's right Brüno, the new king has arrived!

I'm very glad to announce it that we've got our (bikers) fashion sponsor! As I said last time, we had a talk with one of biggest bike gear retailers in Croatia, from Čakovec "Moto oprema AMD" and we came through with a deal. So, what was going on at all last weekend? Let's see...

Biker co-fellow mr. Damir (store owner) heard our story and what have we prepared for after the trip. He has offered his best and finest, HELD brand of clothing. Unbelievability helpful of him to assist us while trying on all kind of jackets and pants. My girlfriend "movie maker" Monika was laughing all the time, as she has finally realised how do I feel when I wait for her while she tries on every single shirt when in H&M. Damn that H&M!

But Josip was so funny... he tried at least 5-6 excelent jackets, Gore-tex, 2 layers, 3 layers, windproof, waterproof, sandproof, bulletproof, but nothing was good enough to please his fashion sense. "It just doesn't fit my sporty biker look, what would people say??" Haha :D

In the end, near closing time, Josip found his match! A jacket so sporty, so adventureous, so chic...

We arranged with mr. Damir for the gear to arrive as soon as possible, to break in the stuff. And of course to make photo shoots with our bikes in our oh-so-chic-yet-rugged HELD gear.

It's been a bussy week, as we went to Iranian cultural centre (ICC), here in Zagreb, to spread the word about our trip and to gather as much information about Iran. It feels sometimes we'll gather more information before the trip than on it :D and I'm not joking!

Helpful and charming mr. Reza, Sandra and Damir from ICC gave us books, pamphlets, maps, DVD.. you name it. Our first encounter with iranian hospitality :)

This weekend, Josip&me are going to pay a visit to our buddy GPS Marko, to get some advice about maps and device with a map. Hm, what I just said?!

And one more thing... mr. Reza gave us a lead who should we contact next and we already arranged a meeting next week. You'll see what ;) Be patient.

pitcured: your patient role model

Something's going on...

Gidday all!

Lot's of stuff happening last week, new moments with sponsors, new contacts, documents, new oil and most important, our first donation!
Yipeee-ki-yay m******!

Pictured: feelings for this week

So, the verdict with Rev'it clothing is in, and apparently they don't like us enough to sponsor us. Maybe it's our profile pictures, maybe it's because they don't have blue pants+jacket combo I specifically required and maybe, just maybe... they're just jealous they're not going themselves :P Must be it!

So, we got a word from a second potential sponsor, one of biggest biker gear retailers in Croatia. We're going there for a meeting next week, so I won't say anything about them yet. Keep yer feet fingers crossed! Both of them.

Iranian cultural society in Zagreb has shown great interest in our plan and the plan is to meet them sometime this week. Can't wait to talk to them, because they could be the key to our plan in showing croatian culture in Iran and vice-versa when we get back.

Speaking of, sooo many people got prejudice about our trip and Iran. Can't belive how much little information is known here about, and what is known almost everyone think's it's extremely dangerous... hahaha. I laugh at the face of danger!

No, really, we want to show to every one of them how cool (no, not literary because much of the trip is a desert with 35°C+) is Iran. At least, that's what Josip & me are thinking.

We got the first of 3 most important documents! International driving licences! Woo-hoo!!!

International driving licence is a document obligatory in most of countries out of Europe (except China, where you gotta take a chinese licence test. In Chinese, haha). But why is it sooo big?! Where will we put it?? But wait, you haven't seen Carnet yet. It's the size of Orbis Romanus. You'll see.
But, 1 down, 2 to go (Carnet and visa).

Also, we did our first real motorcycle mechanic work. It's was hilarious, haha..

Oil change on two bikes = 5 hours

Taking down BMW oil filter = 2 hours

Tools = 14wrench, pointy old screwdriver & hammer. Hammer was an essential tool :D

Btw. the new oil was pink (?!?)

And the last, but most important, our first donation came from Ćoso, a fellow V-Strom biker. He sacrified, taken bread from his family's mouth, just to help me in my quest for glory in Iran. Bless you Ćoso, your name will be written in stars!

btw. the donation was a balacava (100% cotton, niiiice) and heat pads for -°C weather.

Heat pads in summer Iran?!

HEAT PADS !?

Bless you Ćoso, you joker! :D

Maps

Gidday!

For those who want a better insight in the planed route for Iran, here's something interactive!

View Larger Map

The planned route is not very precise, as Google Maps has it's limitations. For instance, It won't route over Turkey-Iran border :D must be some political issue in google's mind. The exact roads we'll take will be decided the night before, as true adventurers do ;)

But really, our first sponsor, my riding buddy Santa will provide us with GPS units (note to myself, install 12V plug and go to Santa for GPS units) mixed with some maps. By the way, he's a GPS and map wizzard, and we're depending on his magic to insert maps to GPS units, even if those map's don't exist - like those of Iran, detailed at least.

And of course, because I just don't like depending on those GPS gadgets (remind me to share a story about being lost WITH a GPS, and finding way back on instinct) we're bringing good ol' fashioned paper maps. Ok, this one is made of plastic, but ... hm... paper maps are also not what they used to be :( But it'll still warm my old

fashioned heart when that damn GPS breaks and looses it's mind.

This blasted beast guided us last year.

Apage, Satanas!

First obstacles

The planned date for take off was 18.6 (June), but talking to Josip, we are very keen to move lift off to an earlier date (2-3 weeks earlier). Because of the heat, my god, THE HEAT!

noooo, not this Heat! I can't see a reason why would Pacino and De Niro influence our trip?! Ok, maybe if they would invite Josip and me to join them on Cannes festival, where we would party all the time. Lying on a yacht in the sun of french riviera, sipping martinis with Katy Perry and...

OK, reality check!!

I mean THIS HEAT!

The funny thing is, our current gear for riding is constisted mostly of black (even underwear!) - the-cool-bikers color. A veeeery baaaad choice for the desert and +40°C.

Currently we're in negotiations with one motorcycle gear company, for some kind of sponsorship. As far as I see it, we'll be Oompa-Loompa happy if we even receive white summer gloves :D

I said we're negotiating with sponsors, which means we don't have any of them. We don't want just to take something from them, as we want to give something back - a great story, photos, calendars, t-shirts, commercials... something that will make them pride they had something of theirs on the trip.

So, to make sponsors to see our picture, our friend, a great graphics designer Marko, has decided to help us and make a logo, pamphlets, maybe even design for t-shirts and all those little things we can make and take with us on the trip.

It would be supercool if we left little mementos to our hosts and good people we meet on the trip, it's something you can't buy, unique and you remember it.

@Marko, if you read this, we need the logo and pamphlet pronto! :D

Another bugger that is on our mind lately is carnet d'passage, that is obligatory for entering Iran. It's pice of document that guarantees that you won't sell your vehicle in entering country. What an outlandish idea, hahaha.. as I would sell my Strom in Iran? It's not even legal for Iranians to drive it. I wouldn't sell it in Croatia or anywhere! But, laws are laws and we have to get Carnet.

Did I tell you the funny part? It's needed only 1700$ to get the Carnet. What a bargain. Right now, we have 0,00$ on our fund, hahaha..

Maybe we should call this guy for help?

"Hello Bing? How's the brother? Still in jail? Listen, do you have any slightly used carnets d'passage to sell? Yes? 1$?! A bargain."

First meeting

Yay!!Yesterday Josip & me had a first real pow-wow. It was a shakedown of things done so far, what is to be done in next few weeks and who is to blame why we haven't got any sponsors yet :D

Josip has launched several e-mails to potential sponsors few weeks ago. And we got word back from our beloved Rev'it! woohoo! Of course, it was out of the question that we got such a major brand as sponsor this early into the preparation. But dear mrs. Peggy from Rev'it gave us excelent questions in which direction we should focus our search.

Firstly, we must provide some media attention. Luckly, I've got friend of a friend in one major motorcycle magazine and our story will be published without doubt. But our trip is such an oddity in croatian bike world, they would publish it regardless ;)

Secondly, our blog is in motion so I'll try to keep every avid reader up to speed!

pictured: exhibit A -> Avid Reader of MotoPersia

Thirdly, our tour plan is complete to almost every detail. Bear in mind we don't plan trips to details :D but that's on purpose, because the trip would lose the adventurous appeal to us. The unknown is always more interesting.

Of course, the visas, important local customs and major sites/cities we have to see are already written in the plan, but everything in between will be left for us to learn and listen for advice from locals. They know the best, they're living there after all!

pictured: us, after following locals advice on lodging

And last, but almost most important idea that Mrs. Peggy gave us is charity! Yes! Definitely!

Josip had a great idea on getting a sponsorship from his company (IT & computers), a small notebook, for orphan kids or a kindergarten. I can just imagine what joy it would be for them! Heck, even I would be ecstatic if someone gave me a computer :D

It's important to give back and at least make a positive impression on people there. Not for us, but for them to see some small & lost country in middle of eastern Europe knows of Iran and wants to make bonds.

We'll give it some time to find who needs a gift like that and they'll become our charity goal.

Done so far:

+tour plan

+expenses plan

+visa application (Iranian agency said that we'll have to contact them in April, but it would be no problem for us getting it)

+our first (and so far only) sponsor will provide us with GPS navigation.

+90% of riding gear (Josip needs better jacket and me some better pants - although my boots leak water and my thumb is sticking from gloves, but that's part of our "bum" look :)

Will do in next weeks:

- our friend designer will finish fancy brochure for attracting sponsors - after that we'll make a major offensive on getting them.

- mount MegaTube on my V-Strom (www.thetooltube.com/MegaTube.html)

- change (and learn in the process) how to change oil on V-Strom. How hard can it be?

- Josip has to rise his handlebars, or risks becoming Quasimodo the Hunchback after a week of riding.

- arrange receivers and gift for our charity goal.

new tasks will remain our little secret for now ;)

'till soon,

adios!

Cultural differences

Bradt's guide for Iran seems like a very dull book. No pictures, no diagrams, no schematics, no pictograms and definitely no love guides how-to-pickup Iranian women. BUT, it does have one tiny little and remarkable thing. Inside information!

So far, I'm loving this book! It's a hard sell at first, as I'm used to DK's Top 10 guides, which are quite the opposite of Bradt guides. Colorful to the extreme, beautifully made and full of usual tourist crap which you see in every other guide.

Anyways, practical information inside ranges from red tape on getting the visa and what colour your clothes should be in particular month (regarding weather, cultural and religious aspect) to detailed explanation of toilet use (my favourite part!). I think I'll have a big scare once we set feet/wheels in Iran.. not from horror Tehran traffic, desert scorpions or various potential diseases.. but from THIS!

Whoooooaaaa!!!